first off i have a 4 bank ecm switch chip so i pulled codes on 2 of the banks. the car has also been converted over to a Lentech AODE trans with a Manual Valve body. Egr and all smog crap has been disconnected along with cruise control and power brakes. "switched to manual brakes" and bypassed and removed the antilock brake system. #8 is alot easier to get to now :)) heres the codes for ;

Stock setting on the ECM chip KOEO
32,75,52,55,35,58,56,56,21,62,26,52,32,75,52,55,35,58,56,56,21,62,26,52
Stock setting on the ECM chip KOER
4,31,43,11,32,75,36,63,23,14,31,13,27,53,66,32
Stock setting on the ECM chip Rev to WOT
53,85,8

Race setting on the ECM chip KOEO
51,15,65,62,16,22,65,11,56,56,21,62,26,52.
Race setting on the ECM chip KOER
53,66,32
Race setting on the ECM chip Rev to WOT
53,85,8

I know this is a lot to decipher but man im really lost here. All i did was change the upper and lower intake to a Trickflow street heat manifold and a 65 mm T/B, A set of BBK shorties and a X pipe. I converted the brakes from power to manual and ripped out the cruise control. like i stated before i have 2 ignition modules 2 caps and rotors, 2 sets of plug wires 2 coils 2 tps sensors and Iac sensors and 3 sets of o2 sensors and ive switch them around more times than i care to think of. the car ran perfect before. I was just lookin to wake it up on the topend thats all "thats why i call her SNOWHITE cause im wakin this B---- up"Man i sure hope you guys can help me solve this Thanks again for all your responses ,you guys are the best PS: the rest of the motor is bone stock

Big Lar

First off...you are using the '95 ECM....right?.....if that's the case some codes manipulation needs to be done first, since they should be the 3-digit types.
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Stock setting on the ECM chip KOEO
32,75,52,55,35,58,56,56,21,62,26,52,32,75,52,55,35,58,56,56,21,62,26,52
should be: 327,552,553,558,565,621,622,652, repeat 327,552,553,558,565,621,622,652

327 - DPFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.2 volts
552 - Air management 1 circuit failure (AM1/TAB)
553 - Air management 2 circuit failure (AM1/TAD)
558 - EGR Vacuum Regulator circuit failure
565 - Canister purge circuit failure
621 - Shift solenoid #1 circuit failure
622 - Shift solenoid #2 circuit failure
652 - Modulated Converter Clutch Control solenoid output circuit error
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and Stock setting on the ECM chip KOER
4,31,43,11,32,75,36,63,23,14,31,13,27,53,66,32

should be: 4(8-cyl id), 314,311,327,536,632, repeat, 314,311,327,536,632

314 - Thermactor air system inoperative (left side)
311 - Thermactor air system inoperative (right side)
327 - DPFE or EVP circuit below minimum voltage of 0.2 volts
536 - Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test
632 - Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD)
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All the codes are compatible with the deletion of the smog and EGR components...aside the last 2 KOER codes (operator error on 536, 632 is due to AODE electronics been eliminated)....they all have a cause.....their deletion.

Need to do some troubleshooting by symptoms now.....what is wrong with the car?...idle, part throttle performance, is it missing.......LUK

could the ecm chip need reprogrammed for the modifications you made?

joel thanks for the reply yes its a 1995 ecm and the car is missing badly after it warms up and is running lean. Once the ecm comes out of "wakeup mode" it just starts to miss badly in part throttle and wot. The car runs fine though for the first 3-4 minutes . PS ;remember that i converted from power to manual brakes and the AODE trans is completely a manual valve body with the overdrive being switched on manually from a 12 volt source. You know as frustrating as this problem may seem i still thinks its kinda cool being able to diagnois this problem with you guys and have nothing but confidence that you will help me figure this out. Thanks again its much apprieciated

Big lar

marx 91 ive talked to the chip people and they say NO since NO mass air,cylinder head or cam change was done. Thanx for the response

Big lar

When the problem starts....how does the tach do?...do you see see the needle jumping erratically?

yes the tach jumps around while the car is missing

Big lar

The problem could be a bad distributor or stator sensor.....remove the distributor cap, and check inside the distributor housing for any signs of rust like dust....the dist shaft may have too much lateral play, causing a problem with the PIP signal pulse the sensor generates, causing the missing, hesitation symptoms that get worse with heat buildup.

If you have the signs of debris inside the base of the distributor housing, you might want to remove the distributor, check the shaft for play, and for any signs of the vanes rotor/cap rubbing against the stator sensor. The vane rotor/cap is used to trigger the PIP pulse.....below are the pics of the vane rotor and a dissasembled TFI dizzy (in your case the TFI module is remote mounted, so it won't be attached to the distributor) for illustration purposes, so you could id the components.



________Vane Cap_____Rotor_____Octane Rod

Distributor Cap__________TFI____________Distributor Base with Shaft

Bottom line, if the conditions explained are present in the distributor, it should be replaced with a remanufactured unit. FYI...this is typical failure of SN95' distributors. LUK what you find out.

joel i removed the distributor cap and there was a black dust present under the vane cap. i find this odd as i had just cleaned the distributor thouroly when i had the distributor out. Why would the car run perfect for 3-4 minutes though when its cold and the ecm is in warmup mode??Thanks again for your response as i feel were getting closer to solving this mystery

Big Lar

The black dust could be from the vane rotor contacting the stator sensor magnet....remove the vane cap and check it for signs of contact.....It's not an ECM warmup issue, it's a stator sensor overheating/noise induction issue (if vane rotor is confirmed to be contacting the stator sensor)...PIP signal gets "corrupt" and the ECM follows the GIGO principle (Garbage In Garbage Out) regarding spark firing and timing control.

FYI.....if this is what's causing the problem, yours will be the 5th. similar case I know of (3 I've worked at the shop) SN95's identical distributor problems + 1 in a Fox...the next two pics show what happened to the stator sensor in the fox distributor...




LUK what you find out.

you guys are the MEN !!! Finallyyyyyyyyyyyyyy!!!!!!its fixed . I replaced the distributor with a new one and waalaaaaaa it works. Now who would have ever figured out that the distributor was going bad the minute i did these mods!!!!!!! YOU GUYS DID THANKS ALOTTTTT MAN!!! Anyway as i posted before, i saw black dust in the distributor under the vane rotor and i remembered that when i set my timing that the timing mark was also jumping around 2-4 degrees.Being as anal as i am about keeping things CLEAN and organized i had just previously cleaned the SH-- out of the distributor body about 10 miles ago of test running so click the light bulb goes off when joel 5.0 "AKA EFI GURU" mentions does the tach needle jump around well anyway it was worth it learning about my car and meeting a great bunch of guys. Thanks again to all who posted and ill let you know how it runs at Atco this month. I see some 03-04 cobras and saleens crying over in the pits when SNOWHITE puts the ol N2O on them. Ill be in touch

Big Lar

....glad to read that fortunately (or infortunately ) you became the 5th. case indeed......but now, you have the back on the road....this is a team effort here....please, LUK how SNOWHITE does, or is it ".....still waiting for the competition" as well ....glad we could be of help. .....

Awesome! Glad you guys got it figured out. Lay some my5oh style smack down at atco!